Covid-19 stay-home guide: Comfort Korean from cutting-edge eatery

My name is Hsueh, I am a food writer and I’ve never dined at Meta Restaurant.

There, I’ve admitted it. I have not darkened the doors of every restaurant in Singapore, but this seems, even to me, an egregious omission. I cannot explain why.

But this one-Michelin-starred restaurant in Keong Saik Road serves the kind of food that is usually catnip to me – contemporary, cutting edge; a skilful blend – or so my friends tell me – of chef Sun Kim’s Korean heritage with Japanese and Western culinary training and techniques. I take the opportunity, while sequestered, to get a taste of Meta at home.

Now, cutting edge cannot possibly shine in takeaway containers, so the Korean Heritage Meal for one ($48) has a rotating roster of homey main dishes: chicken stew, kimchi fried rice, japchae (Korean sweet potato noodles with vegetables and meat) and samgyetang (ginseng chicken soup).

The accoutrements are excellent. The Botanjang (botan ebi in a soya marinade) is firm and luscious, and I suck out all the goo in the three prawn heads with great relish.

Egg Jangjorim, similar to Japan’s ramen eggs, comes in a plastic cup with the soya marinade and a couple slices of chilli. Such a tiny touch, but it yields a big flavour payoff. I shall be adding chilli to my ajitama marinade too.

I am not much of a rice eater but love the Korean rice carpeted with crunchy sacs of tobiko (flying fish roe) and blanketed with strips of seaweed and chopped chives. The rice is aromatic with sesame oil and tastes good even when eaten cold, right out of the fridge.

And that dreamy cheese cake, topped with punchy passion fruit, makes me wonder why I have not had a slice of cheese cake in years. I have missed so much. With the cake comes a perfectly buttery and crisp cookie in the shape of a flower.

I also order the Cabbage Chawanmushi ($10) from the a la carte selection. Soft steamed egg topped with peas, caviar, ikura and tiny pieces of octopus tentacle – and, it must be said, very elusive cabbage. Not that I am complaining. I love every velvety, crunchy spoonful.

Can you tell I am trying to skirt the issue of the main dish? No more delaying tactics, I promise.

HOW TO ORDER

Call 6513-0898 or WhatsApp 9750-8275 to order, or go to: metarestaurant.sg. Delivery hours: 11.30am to 9pm (Tuesday to Sunday)

DELIVERY CHARGE

Islandwide delivery available, free for orders of $100 and above, $10 for orders of less than $100.

RATING: 3/5

It comes in a bag stuffed into a paper bowl, and is nice and warm when I pour it out. The vibe is comforting, but in a very nondescript way. Chicken wings, potatoes and carrots in a sort-of tomato gravy just seems a little prosaic. I yearn for a bit of zip, some zing, to tell me that this is Korean food I am eating.

When I can, who knows when, I will darken the doors of Meta Restaurant.

Let’s see what that kitchen can deliver, outside the constraints of a takeaway box.

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